Category: Gun Cleaning

The Remington VersaMax is a Benelli-pattern gas-operated shotgun that shares component design and operating characteristics with several Benelli models.  These similarities extend into multiple Benelli clones, including Stoeger M3000 M3500 series.   Thus many parts are interchangeable between these shotguns.

Many reliability problems can be traced to inadequate maintenance, worn components, or details that the original Remington owner’s manual does not adequately explain.  The VersaMax  is a reliable gun when properly maintained and worn parts replaced.   Many problems are the predictable result of accumulated fouling, worn springs, damaged small components, use of improper/excessive/insufficient application of lubricants, or maintenance that was inadequately explained in the original documentation.

Before working on any firearm, verify that it is unloaded and the safety is on. Follow the owner’s manual for disassembly/reassembly, maintenance, and lubrication requirements.  This guide is designed to be used in conjunction with your firearms Owner’s Manual.

The most important areas to inspect/clean/replace worn parts in are:

1. Bolt carrier group (cam pin, bolt carrier cam pin slot, bolt-link/rat-tail assembly, extractor and extractor spring, firing pin/spring and channel in bolt carrier, firing-pin retaining-pin o-ring)
2. Recoil/action spring and its associated tube and plunger (trapped inside buttstock)
3. Trigger-group: hammer, spring, and plunger/cap
4. Gas pistons and gas plug retaining cylinder o-rings
5. Removable choke tubes must be lubricated with anti-seize grease!

Regular inspection and appropriate lubrication can identify many problems, and extend part life  (before they become failures in the field).

Start With Basic Maintenance 

Use the owner’s manual procedures to remove the barrel, bolt carrier group, and trigger group. With those components removed, clean the inside of the receiver and put a drop of appropriate gun oil on each rail where the bolt carrier rides.  Only use gun oils that remain suitable in cold temperatures, such as Break Free CLP or RemOil. Avoid products that gel or otherwise become unsuitable in cold weather.

When a VersaMax or similar Benelli-pattern shotgun is unreliable with reputable ammunition, and/or has a high round count, diligently work through the following areas rather than assuming the problem is the ammunition:

Failure to eject, extract, or repeated jams,  Light primer strikes (primers dented lightly) / mis-fires:  Clean and lubricate the shotgun correctly, inspect and correct/replace missing or damaged parts.

• Clean Inspect and lube the extractor & the extractor spring. (On Stoeger M3000/M3500 models the extractor and spring are frequently bad out of the box and should be replaced).
• Clean Inspect & lube the ejector and spring (in a recess of the barrel extension that goes inside the receiver)
• Inspect the bolt cam pin (aka locking pin head) for deformation (replace if deformed)
• Inspect the bolt carrier and cam-pin slot for burrs.
• Inspect the bolt for gouging.
• Inspect the hammer for peening
• Inspect the firing pin/firing pin spring/firing pin channel for debris or grease that is gelling.
• Inspect the hammer spring for wear.
• Inspect the hammer-spring plunger/cap for chipped plating.
• Clean debris from around the hammer spring/hammer plunger (requires disassembly).  Only lube with bonafide gun oil
• Inspect the firing-pin retaining-pin O-ring and ensure its holding the retaining pin fully into the bolt.
• Inspect the bolt link/rat tail for cracks & Inspect the bolt-link cross pin for deformation.
• Inspect, clean & lube the recoil/action spring (in buttstock). Replace the action spring if its resting length is approximately 12 inches or less.

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Gas-system concerns (unique to the VersaMax and M4)

• Make sure the pistons move freely.
• Remove carbon deposits.
• Do not leave oil or grease on the pistons or inside the cylinders.
• Inspect the gas-system-plug O-rings.

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Detailed procedures:   Bolt Carrier Group

The bolt carrier group should be completely disassembled—except for removing the extractor—cleaned, inspected, and lubricated during regular maintenance. Look for wear, deformation, cracks, burrs, gouges, and worn springs.

Cam pin 

Inspect the cam pin for deformation. Replace a deformed pin (we sell them individually and they come with our “remelli” kit). When reinstalling a cam pin, it is a best practice to alternate its orientation at each cleaning—flip the orientation line from forward to rearward to forward. Alternating the mar will distribute wear between both faces more evening and give it a longer life.   Lubricate the cam pin generously with appropriate gun oil. Grease can be used in warm-weather operation, but oil is preferable where cold temperatures are possible.

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Extractor and extractor spring 

The VersaMax extractor and spring are generally reliable, but extractors can break and springs wear. Stoeger M3000/M3500 shotguns are more commonly affected by extractor and extractor-spring problems due to poor quality of manufacturing. If a Stoeger continues to jam or fails to eject after proper cleaning and lubrication, the extractor and spring are the most likely causes. A damaged extractor can cause failures to extract or eject.    If replacing the extractor, replace the extractor spring at the same time. 

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Bolt Carrier Burrs and Gouged Bolts 

Inspect cam-pin slot in the bolt carrier for manufacturing burrs,  remove gouges from bolts and polish. A burr can gouge the bolt as it rotates. If a burr is present in the bolt carrier cam pin slot remove it.  

If the bolt was gouged: first carefully remove the high spots. After lightly stoning or filing away the raised portion of the gouge on the bolt, then smooth and polish the affected area so the bolt rotates freely in the bolt carrier.

Again: If your bolt was gouged look for and remove the burr left in the bolt carrier during manufacturing that caused it! The picture above shows a burr being removed with a small tapered halfround file. Just remove the burr and nothing more.

Bolt link / “rat tail”  Inspect the link for cracks or deformation around the hole in it where the cross pin links it to the bolt carrier.

The bolt link, sometimes called the rat tail or bolt carrier link, is a known failure point, particularly on earlier VersaMax versions.   When a bolt link breaks, it can also deform the bolt-link cross pin/pivot pin.    Replace cracked or broken links and any damaged cross pins.

Firing-pin retaining pin O-ring  The O-ring on the firing-pin retaining pin can wear and allow the retaining pin to work out of the bolt carrier.

Inspect this O-ring and replace it if worn so the bolt carrier assembly remains securely together and the retaining pin is not lost.

Lubrication   After inspection and repair: Reassemble the bolt carrier group and set it aside while servicing the recoil system and trigger group.

• Lubricate the cam pin heavily with proper gun oil (in warm conditions grease may be utilized).
• Put a drop of gun oil on the extractor and extractor spring.
• Put a drop of gun oil on the bolt-link pivot pin.

Note: A common cause of bolt-link failure is debris in the action/recoil spring tube and/or a worn action spring..

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Action / Recoil Spring:  The recoil spring is located inside the buttstock.

Cleaning, lubing, and measuring the recoil spring is one of the most important VersaMax maintenance procedures, and the original owner’s manual does not explain it!    The should be done every 400 rounds fired if not sooner!

1. Remove the two recoil-pad screws with a small Phillips screwdriver  (A little lubricant or moisture on the screwdriver tip can help it pass through the small recoil-pad holes)
2. Remove the buttstock retaining screw using a 3/16-inch Allen/hex driver.
3. Remove the recoil-spring tube retaining nut/cap using a 3/4-inch (19 mm) open-end wrench. Be aware that the cap is under spring tension.
4. Remove the recoil/action spring and plunger.
5. Clean debris from the spring, plunger, and inside of the tube.

Measure the action spring at rest.  If it is approximately 12 inches (30.5cm) or shorter, replace it.   A new spring (like our improved spring) is approximately 13 inches (33cm) long.

Lubricate the spring, plunger, and tube with appropriate gun oil, then reassemble in reverse order.

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Trigger Group :The trigger group initially only requires simple cleaning and lubrication.   

For routine cleaning, remove the trigger group from the action according to the owner’s manual. Invert it over a container and clean out accumulated debris. An aerosol dry-lube cleaner can help flush contamination from the mechanism.  Scrub stubborn deposits with appropriate nylon gun-cleaning brushes and rags.  After cleaning, apply drops of gun oil to the pivot pins and hammer spring.  However as the shotgun accumulates use, the trigger group should also be disassembled far enough to inspect the hammer, and hammer spring. Clean and inspect hammer-spring plunger/cap (this is not covered by the owner’s manual). We offer the high failure parts explained below in a kit called a “Remelli” kit)

Beware of working on trigger packs: D-clips are easily lost during disassembly and reassembly.  Many parts are under spring tension and if not properly handled can shoot across the work space becoming missile hazards.

Problems that develop in the trigger group with use  (Three areas deserve particular attention in the trigger pack after it sees a few hundred rounds of use, and cannot be maintained without partially tearing down a trigger pack):

Hammer: Inspect the hammer where it strikes the firing pin. The striking surface can become excessively peened:  replace the hammer.

Hammer spring: Hammer Springs eventually weaken and should be replaced when worn.

Hammer-spring plunger/cap: Some VersaMaxs came with chrome-plated hammer-spring caps. The plating can chip and produce abrasive debris that bind the hammer spring. The chipped edges can also catch against the trigger housing and interfere with hammer movement. Any chrome-plated hammer-spring cap showing chipped or missing plating should be replaced.

Again: we offer the hammer, hammer plunger, hammer spring & cam pin in a kit called a “Remelli” kit

The VersaMax trigger group is very similar (nearly identical) to Benelli trigger packs, so Benelli trigger-pack disassembly procedures can be useful references. If you are not comfortable performing this work,  you can pay Badger Ridge to perform this service or  have the trigger group serviced by a qualified gunsmith.

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Gas Pistons (unique to the VersaMax and Benelli M4)

Combustion gases deposit carbon on these components. Oil on the pistons when fired can combine with the carbon and produce sticky, glue-like fouling that solidifies.   Any lube on these can promote malfunctions and lock up the system.  A simple functional check on an assembled shotgun  is to lock the bolt to the rear, tip the muzzle up and down, and listen for the gas pistons moving freely and clinking to a solid stop.  If the pistons move freely, they are not likely to be the source of a malfunction, but they should still be kept reasonably clean.

Do not lubricate the gas pistons or gas cylinders with oil or grease.

The owner’s manual provides generally good instructions for maintaining the gas system.  Clean the gas system every time the shotgun is disassembled. A bronze pistol-bore brush can be used to scrub carbon from the cylinders. Oils and appropriate solvents are fine for aiding the removal of carbon with scrub brushes, but all liquids must be removed before re-assembly.  Wipe the pistons and the inside of the cylinders completely dry.  The gas system should not be left wet with lubricant/oil!

The O-rings on the gas-system plugs should also be inspected and replaced if missing, worn, or damaged.

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Choke Tubes :  

Always Use anti-seize grease on removable choke-tube threads (or stuck choke tubes are probable).  Do not shoot steel shot through ‘extra full’ or ‘turkey’ chokes.

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Badger’s Note: Reposting this information here in a new format: Attempting to be both thorough and brief at the same time. None of this should be new to anyone who has read our blog previously.

For this installment of the Badger’s Den, I’d like to discuss WD-40.

But first, let me assure you: We are the same people delivering the same simple effective solutions as always. So if a web search brought you here looking for solutions for your muzzle loader, gun cabinet/safe storage & organizers, tool organization, etc. You are in the right place, and probably just a click or two away from finding it (try one of the links in the prior sentence), or try the menu in the side bar (if you are on a desktop computer… or scroll down if you are on your phone). Or just click here to go to Our Products.

But I hope you stick around and read my thoughts on WD-40.

What is WD-40? Now-a-days, that’s a tricky question. For many years, WD-40 was just the light oily stuff in a blue and yellow can that seemed to be on the shelf in every store. It got used on everything. And it got a bad reputation for drying out and leaving a cruddy crust that seemed to jam stuff up more than fix or lube it.

But now-a-days, WD-40 is still that same oily stuff in a can, and it’s a company, with an entire “WD-40 Specialist” product line. To keep it simple for this post, I’m going to address “Traditional WD-40” as just “WD-40.” The “WD-40 company” will be called “WD-40 company”. All the other “specialist” products the WD-40 Company sells, will be addressed by what I commonly call them: “WD-40 Dry lube” “WD-40 Corrosion Inhibitor” etc.

We don’t sell any WD-40 company products. But I use four of them, and you might too. Seeing they are available just about everywhere, effective when understood, and typically reasonably priced, it’s understandable that you’d have some on the shelf and use it. But the question is, are you using it correctly?

WD-40 actually does stack up ‘OK’ against many other products commonly used in automechanics: grime removal, rust penetrant, etc. It’s rarely the best, but it’s typically OK.

When it comes to guns, if you listen you will find lots of different opinions on WD-40’s usefulness. Many will have horror stories, and tend to be negative. You probably heard stuff like: “Absolutely never use WD-40 on a gun.” If you did a little research you’d find statements claiming WD-40 products are in use in most gunsmithing schools. Can both be true? Is there more to this?

I get to talk to a lot of folks on the phone as part of our business. Some folks hate all things WD-40. They usually have a story that goes along with it. I sometimes ask them what they mean when they say “WD-40” there’s so many cans with that logo on it now, that it can be confusing. I usually keep it simple with them and tell them I used WD-40 all the time, but:

Traditional WD-40 is never the only thing, nor last thing I use on any firearm component!

Let’s start our discussion with the Traditional WD-40. My understanding is that:

• WD-40 was formulated as a “Water Displacement” product while trying multiple formulations, and as it was the 40th formulation that was tried, it was named WD-40.
• The US Air Force was the largest of WD-40’s first purchasers. The USAF prescribed it as a metal treatment for it’s Titan Missiles. It was rubbed on the outer bare stainless steel skin to protect it from corrosion. On things like missiles, paint has weight and weight adds up. The missile can fly farther with a heavier payload the lighter it is, so they omitted paint and had the missileers rub them with WD-40.
• The Air Force guys got used to using WD-40 elsewhere and also seemed to be in the habit of bringing it home and using it on more stuff there. They wanted to buy it commercially, so it hit the shelves. It got used on all sorts of mechanisms, and became the ubiquitous can of lube on most folks shelves. WD-40 became so universal, that the company that made and sold WD-40 changed it’s name to “WD-40.”
• Please note: Traditional WD-40 wasn’t specifically designed as a lubricant, nor a penetrant. However it does seem to work pretty well in those regards… at least until the carrier evaporates and leaves a crusty crud that can jam up mechanisms.

So what does this mean for us gun owners? To me its pretty simple: I use WD-40 to clean crud off guns all the time. I find it especially useful in neglected black powder rifle bolts (something I work on regularly). If one of my guns takes a dip in the water, or hunts in the rain, I’ll hit it heavy with WD-40 too. But WD-40 is never the only thing, nor the last thing to touch one of my guns.

And again, I’m talking traditional WD-40 here. I see it as an effective, inexpensive way to remove moisture and heavy grime. Once that is gone, I remove the WD-40 with something else, and then lube and protect with a final more expensive product designed for the job: like gun oil (Rem-Oil, CLP, etc).

Don’t confuse WD-40 (traditional) with the Specialists. The “Specialists” are entirely different animals. Like WD-40 the “specialists” are reasonably priced, and readily available. They have specialized focuses. I use two of them daily, and pretty sure I have a third & fourth on the shelf too.

Mostly I use WD-40 Specialist Dry Lube. I use it often to remove the Traditional WD-40 I just doused something down with. The evaporative carrier in Dry Lube does a great job of carrying everything left behind away, and leaving it dry but lightly lubed with small PTFE balls. This dry lube feels slick, and leaves a surface that won’t attract dust, hold grime, and most of all doesn’t gel in the cold. I love to clean out shotgun magazine tubes with WD-40 Dry Lube and let it stay slick for feeding shells. Gun actions, trigger packs, and the interior of bolts get heavy doses of Dry Lube. The grime is allowed to float away. Then these mechanisms get drops of gun oil (Rem-oil/CLP) or small dabs of grease where needed.

Like it says on the Dry Lube can: this stuff works great on things like table saw blades, miter saw blades, and other stuff you want to keep dust free. I’ve seen a noticeable difference in how my saws cut after applying a little bit of it.

When I get metal that’s exposed or I need to store something and not worry about corrosion, I’ll hit it with WD-40 Specialist Corrosion Inhibitor. Frequently old antique guns that get stored more than shot, get cleaned, get whipped down with the WD-40 Specialist Corrosion Inhibitor, and then put away. The stuff is pretty greasy. So If I’m going to shoot a gun I coated with Specialist Corrosion Inhibitor, I remove it and lube it properly with standard gun products. But that gun stays lightly coated with the Corrosion Inhibitor most of the time its in storage.

Small metal parts that I stock and sell get hit with Corrosion Inhibitor too. If you buy something from us, like Small Ruger Screws, they will arrive with a light coating of this stuff. I don’t use the corrosion inhibitor everyday, and maybe there is something better out there, but I’m still working through my first can of the stuff I bought a while back.

The third type I have sitting around is Specialist Electric Contact cleaner. I’ve used it to blast gunk out of automotive electrical connectors & parts.

The fourth is the white lithium grease. It doesn’t seem special compared to any other white lithium grease I’ve used. While I have a bunch of dry lube cans, I only have one of the inhibitor, the contact cleaner, and one of the white grease.

So is WD-40 good or bad? Well what WD-40 are you talking about? What is the application? I’d say WD-40 company products, are pretty good values, when you understand them and use them correctly. Like anything: if you want success, you need to be smarter than what you are operating. Start by reading the instructions!

Are the Specialists the best at what they do? Maybe? The real question to ask is, “Are they effective enough and can you get your hands on them?” To me those are both “YES” answers, so I use them.

As a farewell, I’d like to point out that I rarely buy and use the aerosol version of Traditional WD-40. I get the “trigger pro” and refill it from gallon jugs. The trigger pro can seems designed to prevent refills, so it does take some creative use of pliers, exacto knives, and funnels. I cannot find a more simple effective affordable manner to clean all the grimy Remington 700 ML/MLS bolts sent to me. But those same bolts never leave with just Traditional WD-40 on them: its all Dry Lube, a drop of oil, and 3M molybdenum disulfide grease when they go.

Traditional WD-40 is never the only thing, nor last thing I use on any firearm component!